A recent review from Pete Wells, the New York Times’ foremost food critic, is a bit out of character. Rather than review the newest Michelin-rated hot spot, or the newest opening along Broadway, Wells decided to pay homage to the quintessential New York breakfast: The Bacon, Egg and Cheese sandwich.
The sandwich, being designed to satisfy practical needs rather than voluptuary desires, has to be ready fast. Its customers will not stand still for the unaccountably long waiting-around times that espresso drinkers now submit to. It is in the interest of speed, too, that the sandwich’s purveyors are everywhere. Ask a New Yorker where this morning’s ham, cheese and three scrambled eggs on a toasted roll came from, and the answer will be “that cart outside my office” or “that bagel shop by the subway” or “that bodega with boxes of Tide stacked in the window,” whose name, if anybody took the trouble to ask, would turn out to be something like “404 Deli Corp L.L.C.”
Read through Don’t Mess With My Bacon, Egg and Cheese for an entertaining review of an item most of us eat at least once per week.